If the slipper fits...

Everyone tells visitors to Budapest to go to Liszt Ferenc square, but what they don't tell you is that it's full of poseurs and snooty nouveau riche types. Not to mention that many of the joints on the strip are mediocre and overpriced.

Balettcipő Eszpresszó
1065 Hajós utca 14
Tel: 269-3114

Well, there's another place in the vicinity where you can enjoy the sights and soak up the sun while sipping an espresso or a beer. I'm talking about Hajós utca, and, in particular, the Balettcipő ('ballet slipper'), which is set on a corner just behind the Hungarian opera house.

The Slipper has just a smidge of snob appeal, but maintains tasteful decor, has a decent selection of food and drink, and there's the great terrace for wiling away the afternoon.

You can do almost anything here, from having lunch with an old friend to kissing and making up with your lady over a 'mango-lime smoothie'.

On this early spring evening, my buddy and I drank a nice cabernet and ate dinner. He had 2 orders of quesadillas - not bad (both the appetite and the quesadilla) - and I had a tender piece of pork seasoned with chili peppers and accompanied with fried potatoes; I requested a side salad, which was not drowning in dressing - always a plus! We ordered two slices of cheesecake, also quite good, and washed everything down with green tea.

Our bill totalled HUF 8,650, excluding tip.

The only gripe I have on this occasion at the Slipper was the service: I had to argue with the waiter before he brought me a glass of tap water. "That's what we use to wash dishes," he quipped before giving in to my request.