Well Stuffed

Székelykapu Étterem
VI Budapest
Podmaniczky u. 29
Tel: 269 4072

Opening hours: M-Th, 11-23; F-Su, 11-1

Quaint Hungarian restaurants are a dying breed. Back in 1990-91 I remember my old buddy Patrick would go to a different one every night, places with names like "Stop Étterem" or "Alföldi" (which incidentally does still exist), and pay just a coupla bucks for a gut-stuffing, seemingly home-cooked meal.

A new American acquaintance recently suggested the Székelykapu Étterem, and boy am I glad he did. Considering my lady is of Transylvanian origin, I was curious if the restaurant could live up to the legacy of the monumental "Sekler Gates" one find all over that former region of Hungary. Turns out, the gate welcomed us in and comforted us with food that was prepared with loving care.

First wonderful surprise: big cans of Romanian Ciuc Beer, which was obligatory for us once we'd heard it was available. Next came ciorba soup - a tangy traditional vegetable soup which included petite meatballs, and a chicken broth from "a hen that laid eggs poorly". Both were decent. The chicken soup came with diced carrot and a chicken wing on the side.

The grand finale was the stuffed cabbage (töltött káposzta), which was just as delicious as if it had been prepared in someone's home. The rolls were tiny and tightly rolled, containing very lean ground pork, and were accompanied by more delicious stands of cabbage instilled with pieces of smoked ham hock (csülök). Despite all the meat, the dish was in no way greasy. The kind waitress brought us an extra heaping of sour cream to top things off. Along with the fresh white bread, one order was plenty for the two of us.

The Székelykapu Étterem is located in a clean, not-too-smokey cellar and is sparsely but tastefully decorated. Traditional Transylvanian accents like ceramic salt and pepper shakers from Korond are a nice touch. It seems like the perfect place to have some comfort food on a sleepy Sunday afternoon.

We are excited to return and try the homemade fruit brandy (házipálinka).

Our bill totaled Huf 4,200 including tip.