Go with the Flodni

I have a mixed relationship with the Nagykörút (Grand Boulevard) area around the 8th and 9th districts of Budapest. While the architecture in Józsefváros and Ferencváros is as interesting as any you'll find in the Hungarian capital (what's not being torn down...), the abundance of low life 'proli', alcoholics, and poor/homeless people can occasionally boil over to create an extremely oppressive atmosphere, especially in the dog days of summer when the tarmac heats up and the inner city scents intensify.

Kristály cukrászda
1085 Budapest
József krt. 53
Tel: 317-4516

So that's why I was surprised to find such a classy cukrászda (that's 'pastry shop' for non-Hungarian speakers), the Kristály, on the Körút at the corner of Baross utca.

With a glass case loaded up with gorgeous pastries, the Kristály is a fairly new, clean place that takes a few glances back into Hungary's sweetshop past. The art deco sign is punctuated by a few details inside, like a funky old cash register and some antique memorabilia on the walls.

And they have high quality Italian coffee - another plus.

But what I really want to tell you about is their cakes, which are awesome!

The first one I discovered with my companion, 'Sweet Tooth', was one of my old favorites, Flódni. This lovely little tart is a layered affair: one of apple, one of poppy seed and raisin, and the finale, walnut filling. The Flódni at the Kristály is not cheap - over 300 forints - but the layers are generous and delicious. I'm not sure which layer it applies to, but the sugar on one of them hardens to a lovely chewiness and slight burnt flavor. Eszméletlen jó!

One shouldn't be afraid to try other cakes at the Kristály, unless you'd like to avoid the inevitable 'my cake is tastier than yours' debate - because as I've experienced, most of the cakes are so damn good as to instill passion in their devourers.

Sweet Tooth is challenging my authority with her recent discovery of the dubiously named 'Australian slice' (ausztrál szelet). She's been raving about the cake, telling me she's trumped my beloved Flódni. I tasted it and, alas, she may have won. This frosted yellow cake with an inner layer of rich, delicious chocolate filling is also to die for.

But both cakes are great, so don't hesitate - just ask for two forks.